Freshwater dwarf aquarium shrimp have taken the tropical fish hobby by storm, for good reason. They come in virtually every color of the rainbow. They are low-maintenance. They eat unwanted algae. And they are perpetually in motion. If that wasn't enough, their small adult size (typically around one inch) and minimal requirements make them perfect for the desktop nano tank. Undoubtedly, the very best specie of freshwater dwarf shrimp to start off with is the red or yellow form of the cherry shrimp (Neocaridina heteropoda).
Cherry Shrimp Water Requirements
The cherry shrimp prefers moderately hard water, pH values between 7.0 and 8.0 and temperatures in the mid to upper seventies, although they can adapt to nearly any water supply and temperatures between 68 - 80 degrees Farenheit if conditions are kept stable. Swings in temperature and pH are not tolerated by most species of freshwater shrimp and cherry shrimp are no exception. A fully-cycled aquarium is also a necessity, freshwater shirimp being more sensitive to nitrate poisoning than fish as a rule. In addition, special attention should be paid to avoid contaminating the water with cooper, a metal highly toxic to invertebrates, which is often found in fish disease treatments, new copper piping and in some prepared foods.
Basic Cherry Shrimp Tank Setup
Freshwater shrimp do not need elaborate planted tanks to thrive. In fact, freshwater shrimp colonies can often reach higher densities when kept over simple sand or gravel substrate, along with slow-growing, fine leaved plants, like java moss. One simple way to kickstart a cherry shrimp colony would be to add a dozen or so red or yellow shrimp (don't mix them- they are the same species and can hybridize) to a 10-gallon tank with a simple sponge filter, some moss covered driftwood and a light scattering of submerged leaf litter. Leaf litter is a key part of the tank substrate as it provides fodder for the microorganisms that cherry and other freshwater aquarium shrimp relish. Most hard-wood deciduous and/or nut tree leaves (e.g., almond, oak, birch and beach) will work but so will many others, such as magnolia, which is a tough leaf that degrades very slowly. Stay away from eucalyptus, conifers and any leaves that are resinous or contain latex or sap. Regardless of the leaves used, they should be free of contaminates and soaked for several days to leach excess tannins. Only add a few leaves at a time to avoid fouling the water. As older leaves degrade, new ones can be added.
Cherry Shrimp in the Community Tank
Cherry shrimp can thrive and reproduce in a community tank, but only if you choose compatible fish and/or provide suitable cover for shrimplets. Virtually any adult tropical fish can eat a baby shrimp, with the exception of various small, sucker-mouthed algae eating fish, like the bristlenose pleco (Ancistrus sp.) and otocinclus catfish (Otocinclus sp.). These two species in particular appear to present no threat to shrimp at all (other than sometimes dominating food), and are therefore ideal tankmates. Small livebearers, rasboras, tetras and other similar dimunitive tropical fish will generally ignore adult shrimp, but will still eat shrimplets given half a chance. As such, a tank with these fish must possess a dense plant layer if any significant recruitment of the shrimp colony is desired.
Feeding Your Cherry Shrimp
Detritus, algae and microorganisms are present in most well-established tanks and are the cherry shrimp's favorite food. Thus, when kept at low numbers, cherry shrimp will often refuse to eat prepared foods because there are enough of these natural foodstuffs to sustain them. In colonies, however, regular feeding - with just about anything - will be necessary. Algae tablets, most types of fish food, and blanched vegetables (spinach is a favorite) are just a few examples of foods readily accepted. Just be sure to remove any food items that are not eaten within a few hours to avoid fouling the water.
Sexing and Breeding the Cherry Shrimp
The female cherry shrimp is typically larger, has a wider, rounder abdomen and is a deeper color compared to the male, which can sometimes be nearly transparent. Females also will show a faint, yellowish saddle on their backs when mature, which is a sign of their developing ovaries. If a male and female are present and basic requirements are met, breeding is inevitable. The female shrimp will soon become "berried" - i.e., full of eggs - and live shrimplets, which are extremely tiny replicas of the adults, will be released roughly a month later. The young keep a very low profile for the first week or so but then, assuming there are no predators around, will start venturing out and can be seen grazing about the aquarium.
Salvatore Zimmitti - null
Join the Conversation